Details | Building an Auklet Dinghy

Making the Mast and sprit

The mast will be made out of three planks of Oregon Pine (Douglas Fir)

The sprit will be made out of two slats of Oregon Pine.

Drilling the holes for making a mortise for the sheave.

I did two wedges in the mortise to get a clean cut while drilling the hole for the axle.

Shaping with the electric planer first then finishing it with a fine hand plane.

Using a home-made spar gauge.

The ballpoint lines of the spar gauge are plainly visible .

Rounding it by sanding it with a sand belt turned inside out and a wooden drum on the dril

Soaking it in D1 Deks Olje

For the mast of the Auklet, I made two small cleats from leftover pieces of teak from an old table top. Maybe ash is stronger, but the color contrast with the pale wood colored mast has made me decide to use teak instead.

The rounded sprit

I do like the little point at the and to receive the main sail

Oarlocks and pots

To fit the pots I made bulges to the gunwale

I covered the screws with bungs

drilling holes for the pots

Fitting the pots

First layer of injection epoxy

Making a mini block

Making a mini block for the sprit downhal out of teak.

Two more blocks

These two blocks will be slightly bigger (3 x 5 cm) and will be used for the mainsail sheet.

Separating the strands to make a grommet (rope loop) 3,5 the length you need.

The grommet done

Here I finished the blocks and made some nice bindings with waxed rope. Then I combined it to make a mini main sheet for the Auklet. To attach the mainsail I also made an soft shackle.

MAKING A PLUG FOR THE CENTERBOARD CASE

This plug must prevent water coming into the boat while rowing

I still have to figure out something to keep it in place.

MAKING OARS

Here I started glueing two pieces of Douglas Fir together for the oar shafts. ( January 2023)

The blades will be made out of Douglas Fir alternated with Red Cedar

After loosening the clamps Inge and I drew templates for the shape of the blade and the scoop.

Cutting out the scoop first.

Drawing the blade on the curved blade.

Sawing the shape of the blade.

Pleased with the first blade shape.

Planing and tapering the shaft.

Oars in the rough square shape.

Here I used the spar gauge again.

Drawing the handle shape. I made it a little tapered for a better grip.

Here I used an improvised saw stop for cutting in the handle.

Some spoke shave and ander planes to make the shaft octangular.

Sawing the handle shape with the Japanese saw.

The rough shape of the oar is visible now.

Rounding the handles.

Sanded the handles with the sand belt inside out.

I made a simple jig for shaping the oar more easily.

Rounded the back of the blade.

Rounded te shaft.

Here I tried to make a nice transition between the shaft and the blade.

To prevent wearing the tips of the oars I made an Afromosia (African Teak) cross grain inlay at the ends of the oar tips.

I used the small planes my grandfather made for me as toys when I was a kid! I sure think he would have enjoyed that.

I sanded this little toy plane slightly curved so I could use it to make shallow scoops in the oar blades.

Making a smooth handle transition to the square shaft.

Two oars done shaping.

Varnishing with 3 layers of Epifanes PP and 4 layers of poly-urethane with UV blocker.

Making leather cuffs. Folding and gluing the leather with 'Bison Kit' to make a rim at the top of the cuff.

Here the cuff is sewed on the shaft using the wet methode.

The size is just right for the oarlock. It won't fall out.

Completely satisfied with my home made spoon oars. Sewed on the leather cuffs today using the wet method. Job done!

Experimenting making a bucket

I had some left over sail cloth from a torn sail cover so I thought of making a bucket out of it, as experiment. Sewing a bucket is much more difficult than I expected! Sewing evenly is difficult and sometimes frustrating. Making the right size grommet is hard too but luckily I managed. The stitchings are a bit sloppy but I think not bad for a first attempt. Wow, what a job! Now I understand why these sail buckets are so expensive if you want to buy one in a watersport shop.

MAking a boat cover

I used a Bernina sewing machine from 1988 with a jeans needle.

Slowly stitching the heavy fabric. For me it was very difficult to make nice even and parallel stitching lines.

The rough shape of the cover upside down on the floor.

Fitting the cover.

Pounded rings in the cover and pulled elastic trough it.

On the metal lathe I made a few tiny brass knobs to attach the elastic line.

Because the rub rail is only 12 mm thick I have to use rather short screws which are fastened with the 'drill-fill-drill methode'. Drilling the hole slightly wider, fill it with epoxy and than drill again so the connection will be more secure!.

I fastened the knobs under the rub rail so they will not engrave other boats or damage while docking. Because the elastic line folds over the rub rail some of the tension is taken by the rub rail itself.

Pleased with the final result with the two red cedar arches underneath, tense in between the oar lock holes as support. I think it is all 'waterproof' enough to tow behind our 'Pampero' now.

Making a bolt for the tack downhaul

At my school I made a 8 mm bolt out of a 15 mm brass rod on the metal lathe. The flat head of bolt was then neatly sunk into the wood of the mast bench. The ringbolt will be used to attach the downhaul for the tack corner of the spritsail.